Process of making single soled shoes



O t, 9, 1934. H w. MURRAY I PROCESS OF MAKING SINGLE SOLED SHOES Filed Oct. 6, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 9, 1934. H. w. MURRAY PROCESS OF MAKING SINGLE SOLED SHOES Filed Oct. 6, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lll l.

' of the shoe and to seal and cover any stitched Patented. Oct. 9, 1934 NT OFFICE 1,976,135 I PROCESS OF MAKING SINGLE SOLED SHOES Horace W. Murray, Bradford, Mass.

Application October 6,

1933, Serial No. 692,485

4 Claims. (01. 12-142) This invention relates to a novel shoe construction and a new and improved method of making shoes, and relates more particularly to a single sole shoe and method or process of making the same. 0

Heretofore in making single sole shoes the method usually employed is known as the tumed process, in which'process the upper is tack lasted wrong side out to a single outer sole, and then the upper is sewed to the outer sole after which the shoe is removed from the last and is then turned right side out, after which operation it is necessary to again insert a last in the turned shoe. By such a turned process, the upper and the seam or joint at which the upper is secured to the outer sole are subjected to great strains during the turning operation and it is usually necessary to soften the sole by applying suitable liquid to facilitate the turning operation. In sinserted in the shoe as one of the last operations by a pasting operation which serves merely to hold the sock lining in position; such sock lining in no sense serves any other function than a mere lining to improve the appearance of the inside seams or nail points. Other [attempts have been made to produce single. sole constructions in which a temporary member such as paper or any other easily destructible and readily removable material is temporarily secured to the upper to facilitate a lasting operation. Such temporary member is removedafter the outer sole has been applied and after the last has been removed. However, in accordance with such method, a'sock lining intended to remain. in the shoe, is usually inserted by a pasting operation as one of the last steps in making the shoe. In inserting the sock liningby a pasting operation, as one of the last steps in shoe making, it is not always possible to obtain an even distribution of the paste so that after the shoe has been used for a period, the sock lining becomes wrinkled and displaced.

ber such as has been attempted in the other I process noted above.

One of the objects of this invention is to progle sole turned shoes as in other shoes in which a an inner sole is provided, the sock lining is in- One of the objects of my invention is to provide vide a single sole shoe, including a sock lining permanently secured at its edges as by cementing to one side of the inturned edge of the upper, and an outer sole permanently secured as by cementing to the other side of the inturned edge of the upper and to the sock lining, so that the sock lining in addition toserving as a member for improving the appearance of the finished shoe, serves to perform the additional function of maintaining the upper in lasted position during the application of the outer sole.

A further object of this invention is to provide an improved single sole shoe in which the sock lining and shank member are permanently secured together as by pasting or cementing, so that, in the method of making the shoe the shank member and sock lining as a unit or integral member may be laid on the last as one of the first operations.

A further object of my invention is to provide an improved method or process of making single sole shoes in which the sock lining and shank are permanently secured together as by a pasting or cementing operation preferably before the shank member and sock lining are laid on the last or inserted in the shoe structure. The sock lining and shank are laid on the last as one of the first operations in lasting the shoe and the upper is permanently lasted to the sock lining as by cementing. This method of making shoes where the sock lining is laid on the last and permanently secured to the upper, is more particularly suited to the cementing process than by the tacking or nailing process because it would be difficult, if not impossible, to permanently secure a thin flexible sock lining to a thin flexible upper by a tacking ,or process. While .it might be possible to permanently secure the sock lining to theupper in accordance with this process by a line of stitching it would not be practicable to do this with the stitching machines now usually provided.

A further object is to /provide a new and improved method Ofmaking single sole shoes in which one of the first steps in the process is having the sock lining permanently secured to the upper. The sock lining is usually relatively thin, flexible and readily wrinkled. In order to readily adopt the making of single sole shoes in accordance with this process to the usual machines, such as the pull-over machines used in the lasting operation, it is desirable, in order to prevent that a temporary holding member be temporarily secured," as by tacks, over the sock lining to wrinklingand displacement of the sock lininghold it in position. The temporary holder or stay may be composed of a thin sheet of tin, zinc, or fiberboard or other suitable material and is of a form corresponding in general outline to the sole portion of the last but is smaller than the sole portion of the outer edge, the temporary holder being spaced from the edge of the last to aiford room for the edge of the upper which is pulled over and secured to the sock lining during the lasting operation. After the upper is lasted to the sock fining the temporary holder or stay is removed before the outer sole is applied.

Further objects and advantages of this invention will be apparent from the following specification.

One selected embodiment of a shoe, and of the new and improved method, is shown in the accompanying drawings for purposes of illustration, it being understood, of course, that various changes in details may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a pattern for 'a. shank member and a sock lining and illustrates the means of getting the shank and -sock lining in proper relative position prior to permanently securing them together.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the shank member and sock lining permanently secured together.

Fig. 3 is a section taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a section taken on line 4-4 of Fig. 2 showing a section of the relatively thin sock lining.

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing the shank memher and sock lining laid on the last and also shows the temporary holder or stay temporarily tacked over the sock lining on the forepart of the last.

Fig. 6 is a plan showing the position of the upper during the lasting operation in which the toe part of the upper has been pulled over on the usual machine and temporarily secured in position by tacks and showing the heel portion of the upper pulled over and lasted to the shank member by tacks in the usual manner. The temporary holder or stay member is shown in position over the sock lining to prevent wrinkling thereof during the machine pull over operation at the toe and side portions.

' Fig. 7 is a plan view showing the upper on the last in which theupperis shown cemented to the sock lining at the 'forepart of the last and by tacks or other suitable means to the shank at the heel and shank portion of the last.

Fig. 8 is a section taken on the line 88 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a section taken on line 9-9 of Fig. 7.

' 1 Fig. 10 is a bottom planshowing the shoe after application of-the outer sole.

Fig. 11 is a section on line 1111 of Fig. 10.

Fig.12 is a section'on line 1212 of Fig. 10.

In carrying out the method of manufacture of single sole shoes in accordance with the process of this invention it is desirable to have the shank member and sock lining assembled and permanently secured together before being laid on the last.

In order that the assembled shank and sock member conform to the outline of the particular last on which the parts are laid, it is necessary to properly assemble a shank piece and sock member. As shown in Fig. 1 a patteml for theshank piece, and a pattern 2 for the sock lining the particular type, style and size of last which is to be used. The shank piece pattern 1 is preferably formed at its forward edge with portions 3 and 4 which extend outward beyond the intermediate narrower portion of the shank pattern and is adapted to conform generally along its forward edge to the ball or break line of the sole.

In order to assure the assembly of the shank piece 5 and sock lining 6 in proper relation after the sock lining 6 has been cut-to correspond with the sock lining 6 pattern 2, the sock lining is placed over the sock lining pattern 2 and is marked at points such as 7, 8 corresponding to the forward ends of the shank, and at the points 9, 10 at the rear of the sock lining with which the shank member will be aligned longitudinally and laterally with respect to the sock lining 6 before permanently securing the two members together. Preferably, the sock lining is what may be termed three-quarter length extending from the heel breast to the tip of toe.

It is understood that other lengths of sock lining may be used, such as either half or full length. Preferably, the shank member and sock lining are permanently secured together as by paste or cement applied to the overlapping and contacting surfaces between the shank and sock lining. However, other means of permanently securing the shank andsock lining may be employed such as stitching, tacking or stapling, but these means are not as desirable because they form projecting parts which mar the appearance of the shoe. Preferably, from the ball line of the sock lining to the heel breast, the sock liningis formed wider than the shank member to provide a portion which may be bent or turned over the side edges of the shank so as to form portions 12 and 13 on the bottom of the shank 5. This method and structure serves to securely and positively lock the sock lining to the shank piece and presents a trim and turned portion of the shank member at the curved portions of the shank member.

After the shank member and sock lining have been assembled and permanently secured together, a unitary integral member is formed which, throughout its shankportion is yieldable but self-sustaining but throughout the sole portion of the sock lining, extending from the ball line of the sole to the tip of the toe,-is flexible, readily wrinkled, and not as rigid as the shank piece. So far as the applicant is informed there has never been utilized in a shoe-structure or a method of making shoes; a shank member permanently-secured to a sock lining. So it is the purpose of the present invention to cover this feature broadly. According to the prior art a sock lining has usually been considered to be a portion of the shoe which is inserted after the shoe has been finished to cover nail or stitch lines and to add to the general appearance of the shoe.

In so far as applicant is informed he is the first A temporary holder or stay member 16 is also temporarily secured by tacks over the sock fining 6 on the forepart of the last. As indicated in Fig. 5 the shape and contour of the temporary holder 16 corresponds generally with the outline of the forward portion of the last but the edge 1'7 of the temporary holder 16 is spaced throughout from the edge. 18 of the forward portion of the last so as to leave a suilicient marginal portion of the sock lining exposed to permit the upper to be turned over and lasted as indicated in Figs. 6 and '7. As heretofore indicated the temporary holder may be made of flat semirigid material suchas sheet metal, tin or zinc or other suitable material as fibre or cardboard. The temporary holder prevents the wrinkling and displacement of the center of the sock lining particularly during the machinepull over operation, and during lasting of the upper to the sock lining.

After the shank member and sock lining have been laid on the last the next operation is that of app ying the upper to the last and lasting the upper to the shank member and sock lining. As

before indicated the pull over machines, commonly provided in shoe factories may be employed for effecting the various pull over operations.

The shank piece and the sock lining are rough-' ened around the edge thereof at the portions to which the cement or paste is to be applied. Any of the usual cement processes and the usual cements, either latex or cellulose derivative cement may be used in cementing the upper to the sock lining. a

The lasting of the upper to the heel portion may be performed in the usual manner by tacking. The lasting of the upper to the shank memher from the heel breast forward to the break line of the shoe of the ball preferably is accomplished by cementing, but other usual means such as that know as Little-way lasting, in which wire and stapling is utilized, may be employed. In view of the thinness of the sock lining and in view of the fact that no inner sole is used, lasting of the upper to the sock lining is preferably accomplished by the cementing method.

In performing the lasting operation, the machine for pulling over the upper .at the toe portion is first employed and the turned edge of the upper is temporarily secured by tacks 19 as indicated in-Fig. 6. As before stated the heel portion may be lasted to the shank member by a. row of tacks 20 as indicated in Fig. 6. After the various side pulling over operations are performed, the edge of the upper is cemented to the sock lining and the portion of the shank member from the heel breast forward to the break of the ball line, as indicated in Fig. 7 in which the turned edge of the upper which is lasted to the sock member and shank member is as at 21.

After the upper has been subjected to the various pulling over operations and secured to the shank member and sock lining the temporary holder or stay member 16 is removed as it has served its function and purpose of preventing the thin yieldingsock lining from wrinkling during the pulling over operations and lasting.

The layer of cement is indicated at 22 in Fig. 9.

The usual metal shank stiffener 23 may be applied as indicated in Fig. 7, afterthe upper has been lasted to the shank piece and sock g The lasted upper is now ready for the next step which is the application of the outer sole to the shoe. The outer sole is secured to the lasted upp Preferably by a cementing operation appearance.

but other old and well known methods of securing the outer sole may be used. The intumed edge of the upper and the edge of the outer sole are roughened in the usual manner before applying the cement. Any of the usual cement processes and the usual cements, either latex or cellulose derivatives cement may be used in securing the outer sole to the upper lasted to the sock lining. Two of the well known cementing processes are known in the trade as. Fresco, cold selfvulcanizing latex cement process, and the Compo cementing process which utilizes a cellulose derivative cement.

The application of the heel to the. shoe may be made in accordance with the usual practice.

After the outer sole has been applied the last may be removed'from the shoe.

After the heel has been applieda heel pad may be inserted to cover the nail or tack heads so as to improve the appearance of the shoe. The heel pad would cover the portion of the heel forward to the heel breast from which point forward the sock lining serves to form a neat and trim lining which gives the shoe an attractive By utilizing what may be referred to as a threequartersock lining an economy of about 25% in the stock utilized for the sock lining may be effective as compared to the usual sock lining which extends throughout the entire length of the shoe. The heel pads are very inexpensive as such pads may be formed from relatively small pieces of waste or scrap leather.

It is again repeated for purposes of emphasis that one of the important and outstanding fea- 11o tures of the novel shoe structure and method of making the same ,is that the sock lining is one of the first parts to be laid on the last and permanently built in the shoe structure. In addition to serving to improve the trimness and general appearance of the inside of the shoe, the sock lining now serves additional useful functions and purposes in expediting the shoe manufacture and making possible a single sole shoe having all the ease, comfort and flexing qualities 0 of a turn shoe and eliminating many of the troublesome time consuming and expensive operations required in the manufacture of a single sole shoe by the turn method. The sock in accordance with prior art practice is the last 12. part to be put in the shoe after it is finished and so could serve no useful purpose in the various steps required in shoe manufacture.

It is, of course, understood that no innersole either temporary or permanent is used or required.

While one preferred form of shoe and'method of manufacture has been shown and described for purposes of illustration it is understood that various changes in detail may be made without departing fromthe spirit and scope of the invlention, if within the scope of the appended c aims.

What I therefore claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

the edges of the upper to the sock lining, removing thetemporary holder, cementing an outer sole to the upper, and removing the last.

2. The process of making single sole shoes which consists in permanently securing a sock lining to a shank piece, temporarily securing the 1 shank piece and the sock lining to a last, applying a temporary holder over the sock lining on the forward portion of the last leaving a marginal portion of the sock lining exposed between the edge of the holder and the edge of the last, applying an upper to the last, pulling over the toe portion of the upper, temporarily tacking the pulled-over toe portion to the last, pulling over the side portions of the upper, cementing the upper to the sock lining and the shank from the heel seat forward, removing the temporary holder, cementing an outer sole to the upper, sock lining, and shank member, and removing the last.

3. In the method of making singIe sole shoes by a method other than the turn process, those steps in lasting an upper which consist in laying an easily wrinkled sock lining on the last, tacking on the sock lining a semi-rigid temporary flat holder spaced at its edges from the edges of the last, pulling over the upper, permanently securing the inturned edge of the upper to the sock lining, and removing the temporary holder. 4. In the method of making single sole shoes by a non-turn method, that method of lasting an upper which consists in laying a yielding and easily displaced sock lining on the forepart of the last, temporarily securing a holder over the sock lining, excepting that portion of the sock lining around its edge to which theupper is lasted, pulling over the upper, permanently securing the pulled over upper edge to the sock lining, and removing the temporary holder.

HORACE W. MURRAY. 

